Stags, Hens and Bacon Sandwiches

Although we had two free first class tickets, we decided to take the train which had no first class seating.

I won’t bore you with why we had the free tickets, but I will say that we chose to go to Cardiff the scenic route thus swapping (mild) train luxury for scenery.

The shame was that the best beloved slept through most of it – missing the White Horse etched on the hill, the great view of Bath, the pretty fields and sweeping countryside etc etc etc.

Anyway, partway through this journey we were joined by a stag party on their way too to Cardiff.

They weren’t wild, foul mouthed, pissed as skunks but they were loud – though even they couldn’t walk the BB from his happy slumber.

I was, at this point, thinking that taking the other route complete with peaceful first class carriages might have been the better idea.

Later I was to find out that Cardiff was packed with Hens and Stags.

In my day, they used to come to Cardiff from the valleys for a night out before the wedding, get very drunk, probably have a row, and go home – all on the same day.

Now they make a weekend of it and come from all sorts of places.

My sister tells me the same is true of York.

When someone (bizarrely it seemed to me,) donated a pink cowboy hat to the Petersfield Oxfam bookshop, she told me you could see about 150 of those in York on any Saturday afternoon.

Back in Cardiff, we bumped into a hen night in the pub opposite our hotel – one of those not gentrified in the changed cityscape.

There was a dedicated afternoon disco room and everyone had a sash saying who they were: mother of the groom, bridesmaid, cousin of the bride, groom’s previous lover – no, of course not the last one.

But in the bar were two nice men who I talked to about the changes since I lived there.

My BB said that I spent the whole weekend going up to complete strangers and saying, ‘Hello, I used to live here you know. ‘ He was pretty much spot on.

But the proliferation of stags and hens reminded my of the Big Chill.

My BB’s children gave us tickets to the festival as a birthday present and we went.

Luckily it was within a few miles of my mum’s house so we had showers, food, toilets etc etc within easy reach – we are not bring-it-all-on-we-don’t-need-anything-but-a-hole-in-the-ground-and-some-music types.

Anyway, we pitched out tent next to a circle of tents full of (not surprisingly,) young people and then after setting it all up realised we were just by the entrance to the main arena.

Despite these very nice young people telling us that all would be well and they would ensure we had a lovely time, we picked up the erected tent and moved it down the hill.

Settling on a nice spot a long way from the arena and sitting outside on a lovely evening,  we watched as the space next to us filled with young men all with pup tents.

Being the sociable one of the two of us, I engaged them in friendly festival conversation and found out they were there on a stag weekend.

The idea of upping sticks, or erected tent, and moving again was just too much like hard work and if all else failed, my mum was only a few miles away.

But do you know what, it was delightful.

Of course, we didn’t stay up all night helped by various illicit substances though we did have an encounter with a dental nurse from Bristol who was dressed in a large white fluffy dressing gown beneath which she had secreted the bladder of a box of white wine and she was very generous with it.

And the stag group next door were quiet as mice.

The next day I got up early, as is my wont,  and went in search of sustenance.

I presumed nothing would be open but hey, of course, some people were just coming home as it were.

To my surprise, the groom-to-be was also awake and he and I strolled up the hill to find tea and bacon sandwiches.

We did that every morning.

He told me that he had promised his wife-to-be that he would be good, so he had decided two pints of cider a day was all he would have, and he always liked early mornings not least because you met people you wouldn’t otherwise meet.

I thought she was a lucky woman to have found him – I am not sure I would say that of all the brides-to-be whose grooms-to-be were in Cardiff last weekend.

The Days Of Typewriters

It was a trip down memory lane and it was hard to realise how much older I am now than when memory lane was just day-to-day life.

We went for the weekend to Cardiff.

When I lived there,  journalists – and I was one, hard to believe though that might be, dear reader – used typewriters.

Indeed you didn’t have your own typewriter so if you were late into work you might find yourself landed with the upright black one dating from about 1925.

‘E’ is the most popular letter in the English language and the ‘e’ on this machine had worn out.

So when you finished typing your story – on two sheets of very thin (as in cheap,) paper with a piece of carbon-paper sandwiched between so that one copy could be kept in case of legal action – you had to go back over it writing in all the ‘e’s.

We had one mobile phone for the whole newsroom and that was so bulky you needed to have the only office car to take it anywhere.

Its range was hardly more than shouting distance so taking it anywhere was usually a waste of time.

If you wanted information you rang someone and your contacts book was your most precious belonging.

If you wanted older information you went to the newsroom ‘library’ where you would ask a surly man for the subject you wanted and he would bring you a cardboard envelope, called a packet, full of cuttings from the paper on the same issue – if you were lucky.

This was the library which still held the lovely Western Mail headline when the Titanic went down: ‘Welsh people die in shipping disaster.’

It also held packets and packets and packets of coverage of the Aberfan disaster.

I was a trade union activist – hard to believe though that may be, again, – and I used to have to go and talk to the printers.

Though they were the newspaper equivalent of horny-handed sons of toil, they were much better paid than us effete journalists and one day I will tell you about going to meetings in their Bedford HQ and beef wellington and generally how it so differed from the journalists’ union HQ – suffice it to say at this point, they had considerably better surroundings.

Anyway, I was in my early 20s in those days and one of those days, I went downstairs to talk to one of their union officials.

I got wolf-whistled which wasn’t anything out of the ordinary, but their union leader shouted for it to stop saying, ‘She isn’t a girl, she’s the Mother of the Chapel.’

It never seemed odd to my feminist-atheist self that the terms Mother and Chapel as a description of a woman union leader was anything other than perfectly reasonable – I bridled, though, at being called a girl.
Enough, for now of my journalist stories though I could tell you about flunking my first National Council for the Training of Journalists exam because I argued with the examiner about what was realistic in the aftermath of an all -ut nuclear war – in those days that seemed a possibility – though not like the examiner had suggested.

I could tell you about the lovely Inn on the River known locally as the Pub on the Mud where I spent many a happy Sunday lunchtime. And whilst on the subject of pubs – we were journalists after all…..

I could tell you about The Philharmonic (The Philly) a pub where we adjourned after a late shift before getting a Cardiff speciality – chips with curry sauce – from Caroline Street.

(To my delight, there are still places selling that Cardiff delicacy in Caroline St even though the new, posh Brewery Quarter is there too.)

Actually the brewery, Brains, has moved. It used to belch foul, or at least unattractive, smells of hops being transformed into Brains beer across the road to the Western Mail.

The brewery has moved and the paper has moved too.

Just a little stretch of memory lane left.

The Wake

Maybe if you know Jeremy Corbyn personally you don’t think he is ‘dismal, lifeless and spineless’ but his campaign to get Labour voters to vote remain certainly was.

Dear reader, I will come back to that so you have been warned.

In our village there was a very tactful lack of campaign posters on either side and a general tacit agreement in the pub – at least amongst the people we drink with – not to talk about it.

Maybe on Friday there were some hoop-doopey-do celebratory parties going on across our part of Deepest Sussex – but in our house there was a wake.

A very nice wake with good friends, and who better to have at a wake with, but there was a real sense of loss not just for us but for the next generation.

What right do we have to retreat into the post war view of Great Britain (with lots of capital letters) and leave the next generation out of the Europe they have grown up with and want to live in.

It makes me angry – but I do not think that everyone who voted to leave is a racist bigot.

I do think if I had voted to leave on the basis that there was £350m available now to put into the NHS and that immigration would be cut to ‘the tens of thousands’ I would be mightily fed up to find Farage finally admitting that the £350m was a lie, and that the Brexit lot are saying that controlling immigration does not mean cutting the numbers.

And many people did vote based on those promises.

Boris, the man campaigning ‘against the elite’ spent yesterday playing cricket as a guest of Viscount Althorp.

If this is the man to be our new leader and unite us, then ‘god’ help us.

Mind you, I have to say – and so back my beginning – some MPs in the Labour Party and Jeremy Corbyn should be ashamed of themselves.

Lots of this campaign – of course not here in Deepest Sussex but in places where life is just a teensy bit tougher – was about being mightily fed up with the political class, with obsessive media coverage of the machinations of Westminster, with being seriously out of touch and definitely not using the old maxim of ‘you have two ears and one mouth, use them wisely.’

I cannot claim to be in the least bit bothered that the Tory Party is tearing chunks out of itself and each other but someone/some party should be studying up for fairness.

David Cameron said we were all in this together but we weren’t. We aren’t. And the people who have felt this most keenly have told them all to bugger off.

I think it was the wrong way to say it. Leaving the EU does not make for a change in the political class in Britain and if you think Boris is going to make a significant difference to NHS waiting times in Sheffield or Scunthorpe or Southsea you may find out that he doesn’t. No way.

But we need a Labour Party leader who does care about fairness and surely Jo Cox wasn’t the only Labour MP to be such a great person who worked for real values, who fought and laughed and could talk to people and who believed in the same things that lots of us – in or out – believe in. Someone out there in the Labour Party must be able to do that – and be a leader.

Jeremy Corbyn may well be a man of principle but his ideas are 30 years out of date ( at least, and I should know because they were out of date when I was a political lass.) One of his supporters said he had a ‘nuanced’ message.

But a referendum is binary, back and white, in or out – not bloody nuanced.

And yes, he campaigned around the country but to meetings called by his supporters. That is just not good enough. Not by a country mile as we might say round here. He has to go.

However, and deep breath at the end of that rant, there were few things which made me laugh in the last few days but here are two of them:

A great Facebook posting which said,

Cornwall has voted to leave!! Cornwall received almost £800m of EU Objective One funding between 2000-2013. Didn’t you like your new university? Massive new tourism infrastructure (Eden Project)? or super-fast broadband provision?

That’s a lot of money to replace by selling Poldark tea towels…

And then there was the news that the person who set up the petition which at time of writing has more than 3m people demanding a new referendum ( which we won’t get, or maybe even could cope with, but it sends a message) was actually an ‘outer’ who though they would lose.

Back to the wake. We had nice food, we had music, we had a laugh and almost a cry, we had thoughts about what we could do and should do to, realised that this went across party boundaries – whether you were in or out – and what a big day it was to be together.

I am planning a series of future wakes.

When Boris becomes Tory leader. When Boris gets elected. When the Labour Party again fails to get its act together, when Trump gets elected…… so much wake planning to do.

Tutus and dog poo

Once a year I work somewhere that looks for all intents and purposes ( at least from a bit of a distance) like a Medieval court on a stop during a procession through the country.

Coming out of the woods and along the road you can see large marquees, banners fluttering and though the house is 19th century, you could imagine a 15th century version in which the local lord and his wife were both overwhelmed by delight at the honour, and horrified by the expense and trouble, of having this ‘visit.’

For all I know, the current landed gentry owner is feeling much the same because infact this is The Garden Show at Stansted House in Deepest Sussex.

I don’t want to extend this metaphor too far because we don’t have knights a jousting or cooks’ boys roasting hogs but still I needed you to get the image in your mind.

So, back to the 21st century and what it is like being involved in such an event.

Like all events, the activity behind the scenes is invisible to the visitor’s naked eye unless something goes wrong and it is our job to make sure they never notice any of it.

( We have a staff area which is well cordoned off from members of the public so that we can get on with things, have a break, leave stuff lying around, take radio messages of missing children and so on.

I found one elderly woman coming through our area and approached her and told her that this was not on the ‘public route’ through the show area and could I show her back onto the main show ground.

‘What the hell do you need a staff area for?’ she asked.

Well, 6,000 visitors a day, several hundred exhibitors, a timetable of events which makes sure the flying eagles display does not coincide with the doves being let out, a chance to have a cup of tea without being asked where the toilets are and what time is the chocolate cookery demonstration…….)

As with all such things 90% of the visitors are lovely and 90% of the exhibitors are great too.

But if you are staff those bloody 10% take your time and energy.

So, here is the story of the 10% this year.

There was a woman stallholder who was not happy.

The amazing person whose role it is to smooth ruffled feathers went to see her.

( In brackets, how many companies could do with an Anna, for that is her name. Worth her weight in gold, and she is definitely appreciated as such – smoother extraordinaire.)

It is hard in normal day-to-day life to imagine yourself negotiating and calming a woman dressed in a large pink tutu who is complaining large and loud.

But we were.

And it wasn’t just her, it was the man selling garden furniture next to her and the woman selling, dear reader brace yourself, dog poo composting systems.

I won’t bore you with the details but you can picture, if you like, the smoother extraordinare, the head of security and the woman in a large pink tutu, and me at each corner of a gazebo and walking across the site with it.

And the man with the popcorn-providing fire engine (yes indeed), picking up the tutu woman’s goods and chattels and following us to her new site.

Meanwhile, dog poo.

So, the dog poo composting stallholder bent my ear about the fact that she was a few months into being self employed and risking her livelihood on selling this product at shows like ours and this show was proving to be an abject failure for her and she was on the brink of failure.

I, learning from the smoother extraordinaire, was talking to her about the early days of a new business and how difficult they were, the vagaries of shows and how you could have bad sales one year and great the next, how you had to try shows to find out which worked for you because the demographics were different, how we could only bring in the visitors and the sales were up to the stallholders and so on.

She was not appeased.

When I went back to the staff area, I said that I had had this conversation and I thought they might get more in the way of complaints from this stallholder.

‘But it’s shit,’ said a colleague – accurate in various ways, but not providing me with a line I could take with the dog poo woman next time I saw her.

Gift Aid

Now, I am well aware that first impressions can be wrong and I am often reminded of that fact when I make a hasty judgement on someone or something only to be proved comprehensively wrong.

But if, as I did today, I open a box to find a souvenir programme from Charles and Diana’s wedding, six books all relating to cats and The Good News Bible and ten Readers’ Digest abridged novels, I know that things were not looking promising.

This box was one of about 17 donated by the same person so my heart was not, dear reader, a-leaping with excitement.

But, bless their hearts, they had gift aided the contribution.

Gift aid means we can get 25% more for each sale, so we like it a lot.

Now the 17 boxes were clearly labelled as gift aided and at the same time there were other donations which weren’t gift aided, all in the same area.

It is, of course, completely unacceptable and against the rules to gift aid a book which is not in the appropriately gift aided box.

But you know, accidents do happen.

I know that the government just wants to help and they have set up the gift aid system to support good charities and I know that people who donate a lot of books are expecting a lot of books to be gift aided.

So, the accidental happenstance of one or two books which are of excellent quality being wrongly gift aided is, in this light, is a happy happenstance, surely.

And you can never tell what is at the bottom of the box.

So, among the royal books ( never a good seller in our bit of Deepest Sussex) and the old Blue Peter annuals ( no doubt one day a valuable book but not in this century) there were a few delights.

An old guide to Egypt, a couple of large old books on the rivers of England, a limited edition of a ghost story which seems to be worth something though I am not sure why, and a Hairy Bikers Pie recipe book which someone will like.

And then there was the man who came in yesterday and carefully handed over to me a pile of postcards dating from about 1970 and who said that he thought someone would undoubtedly buy and treasure them and at the same time put money in Oxfam’s coffers, I didn’t like to disabuse him.

Frederick Cecil Banes Walker

When I am sorting through the thousands of books donated to the village festivities, there are always some I hoick out because I think they might be worth something.

We sell all the paperbacks for 50p and the hardbacks for £2 – whatever the subject or size of the book.

Well, some books are just worth more than that and I am not going to let them go for next to nothing.

(Which reminds me, we have a woman and her mother who come every year to the bookstall and they, every year, complain that we charge too much. ‘Give over and don’t come next year’ are the polite end of what I want to say to her.)

As you will know if you have read the previous blog, donations of books come in thick and fast and we don’t keep track of who donated what so we take it as it comes.

Anyway, I had a pile of books which needed checking and indeed the rather rare Heath Robinson book is worth about £60 and my ever-so-slightly eagle eye for the niche books which are only printed in small quantities and are therefore valuable, paid off when I discovered that ‘Four Centuries of Liege Gunmaking’ is worth about £75.

A rare early guide book to Palma was also worth a bit and ‘The Mechanical World Pocket Diary and Year Book 1914’ is also worth a darn sight more than £2.

But it was the  book called ‘The Roll of Honour 1916’ that this story is about. Everyone killed in the war that year was listed with their photograph and a small biography (and there was one such book  produced for eery year of WWI.)

WWI memorabilia is very popular and it being the 100th year, I thought I would easily sell it on eBay and split the proceeds between the village festivities and Oxfam.

So, I listed it and I have to admit that I listed it wrongly, so instead of starting the bidding at £10 and hoping to make £30 or £40, I mistakenly listed it as ‘buy it now’. Indeed, someone did – within about 10 minutes.

But, dear patient reader, this is just the preamble to the real story here – so please bear with me.

Whilst I was flicking through the Roll of Honour book to check it was intact, no internal markings or pages ripped out, some paperwork fell out.

As usual I was cooking supper, making a list of things to do, checking emails etc etc and so I handed the bits of paper to my best beloved and asked him to check what they were.

He said, one was the commission for a soldier as a 2nd lieutenant. When I looked later, the next was a letter from the War Office saying where he was buried. The third was a postcard with a sketch on the front of the cemetery, and a description of the grave and its surroundings on the back.

It really makes you stop and think when you find something like that and I was wondering who it was who had made their way to the cemetery where ‘ The big grave under the apple tree is Captain Taylor, Scots Guards & is the only marble cross at present in the cemetery and is a good guide. ‘

The X on the drawing ‘Is his grave directly inside the little gate. The three near trees are all apple trees.’

I then looked at the commission which is a large and formal document which says,’ You are therefore carefully and diligently to discharge your Duty as such in the Rank of 2nd Lieutentant or in such higher Rank as We may from time to time hereafter be pleased to promote or appoint you to, of which notification will be made in the London Gazette and you are at all times to exercise and well discipline in Arms the inferior Officers and Men serving under you and use your best endeavours to keep them in good Order and Discipline. And We do hereby Command them to Obey you as their superior Officer and you to observe and follow such Orders and Directions as from time to time you shall receive from Us or any superior Officer according to the Rules and Discipline of War in pursuance of the Trust hereby reposed in you.’

It is dated October 3rd 1914.

He died on May 9th 1915

On November 20th 1916, his father was sent a letter saying he was buried at ‘ Le Trou, about two miles south of Fluerbaix. The grave has been registered in this office, and is marked by a durable wooden cross bearing full particulars.’

This 2nd lieutenant played test cricket for Somerset. Also, he played rugby and hockey. The has a Wikkipedia page. He had no links with Sussex and lived in Somerset all his life.

His name was Frederick Cecil Banes Walker.

Not a common name.

My neighbour is called Banes Walker.

So, of course, I went round with the commission, and my neighbour said Frederick Cecil Banes Walker was his uncle.

I have no idea who donated the book with these pieces of paper tucked inside.

No idea why they were here in Sussex.

 

 

 

HartFest

The Harting Festivities or HartFest as we on the committee have started to call it, being rather daringly modern, are over.

This, if you are not a resident of Deepest Sussex, is the day in the year when the village main street is blocked off and we have a village fayre ( as you can tell we are not all that daringly modern.)

I for my sins as they say, am in charge of the bookstall – and I want that name changed as well.

For, dear reader, this is not just a couple of trestle tables pushed together covered in dog-eared copies of Jeffrey Archers and endless variations of Aga sagas (this being Sussex), oh no this is much, much, more.

I won’t bore you with the full explanations of what you need to do to effectively run a HartFest ‘bookstall’ but suffice it to say you need to fill the event hall of the Legion Club with books – all in their topic categories, paperback novels in alphabetical groups so that yes, we can tell the small, frail customer where to search for her Nora James.

Filling, in this context meant about 110 banana boxes of books and if you are just about to think, ‘Well, OK, that is quite a few but let’s not go overboard on the numbers here,’ I would like to say to you, ‘ a) you try lifting that many books from where they are sorted to where they have to be – yes round the corner but still…and b) because, yes indeed, they are sorted that means we also took 10 car loads of rejects to the tip and that is hard work too.

Before I wallow in too much halo-polishing, I would like to say of course I don’t do this alone.

I don’t do it alone because I am rubbish at doing anything on my own and always want a group of people to be involved in anything I am, but also to do it alone would  take months and render me unable to do anything else all year.

So, a marvellous group of people helped sort, moved the books and ran the bookstall on the day and lest this turn into a badly written piece for the parish magazine thanking everyone all over the place, I will leave it at that.

But, I do think we need to call it something bigger than a bookstall.

Pop-Up Bookshop, maybe. HartFest’s Mini-Hay, maybe. Any bright ideas are welcome.

So, all this hard work pays off – this year we made £962 and half goes to village charities and half to Oxfam ( who, between you and I ‘donate’ quite a lot of good quality books.)

I am not a competitive person but snapping at my heels is the necklace stall.

The idea came from a great woman in the village who thrown herself into village life with gusto (and thank the lord, relative youth.)

The idea is that most women have necklaces they have bought, don’t wear and don’t want – but some other woman will.

We, on the HartFest Committee were asked to see what we could raise in terms of necklaces through friends etc etc.

I showed myself to be the archetypal Sussex housewife by approaching my Pilates teacher to see if I could put a notice in her studio, my hairdresser for a notice in her salon, my book group and a group of friends who regularly lunch to salute one of our brilliant friends who has died.

Well, dear reader, sneery though I may be of my housewife credentials, they did good and we got lots and lots and lots of jewellery.

The sign I made for my hairdresser said:
Do you have any necklaces you don’t wear – of course you do!
So, if you could have a clear out of those beads you bought in the Accessorize sale and have ever worn since… Please think of us.
And we will take bracelets too – infact any old sparklies.

Rosie, my hairdresser reported that one of her clients had said to her,’ Oh I’d love to help, I have loads of necklaces I don’t wear but I don’t think any of them came from the Accessorize sale…’

Perhaps it was her who donated the sapphire and diamond ring. This is Deepest Sussex as I keep reminding you.

Anyway, I had nothing to do with the stall except for collecting carrier bags full of necklaces from my ‘sources’ but those who did, made a fantastic display of colour co-ordinated necklaces, silver ones polished to glint in the sunshine ( it was nearly sunny), an old birdcage draped with lovely sparklies – lovely all round.

And this, their first year, they made more than £500. And I have to say, a little disgruntedly, I am a woman who loves jewellery, and necklaces are a shed load easier to store and move than books.

Dear reader, I am in the wrong HartFest job.

Shopping in Budapest

If you are spending a week in Budapest for dentistry – which we were – there are some basics you need.

And the means to create tasty adult baby food is one of them.

That means trips to the Spar supermarket in the nearby shopping mall called Mammut.

In it, you can get a Thai massage, shop in H&M or indeed in Marks and Spencers, buy and apartment or a pet bird, and buy a potato peeler and masher – necessary for the obvious reasons, and not supplied in the apartment despite the fact it is rented almost exclusively to those coming on dentistry missions.

I am sure there are quiet times in Spar when you can waltz through the checkout but I don’t manage to hit on any.

So, I queued up with everyone else, hoping that my grasp of the currency would mean that I didn’t brandish the equivalent of a £20 note for some milk and potatoes – and that I would get change that was in notes rather than the completely incomprehensible coins which I can only distinguish one from another with my glasses on and in a good light.

( A very nice young woman at the bakery stall in the market had kindly taken all my coins and given me the note equivalents the day before – it made me absurdly grateful.)

One day, there was a young Goth on the Spar till. She had white eyelashes and very white makeup and some rather painful looking tattoos on the back of her hands.

She dealt with the man who seemed to be discussing at length some issue around his store card points – though he could have been talking about the national debt for all I knew.

Then there was a woman who seemed to have bought the complete frozen fish stock of the place and wanted each item put in a plastic bag before she would move on.

And then it was my turn. I smiled and  packed my rucksack as quickly as I could – despite, or maybe because of, the long queues the till women are ruthless at getting everything processed quickly.

Then she said something to me and I was lost. ‘Sorry, mm, sorry,” I said.

‘Oh,’ the nice Goth girl said, ‘ I was just asking if you wanted a voucher but don’t worry, it probably won’t be of any use to you. Are you here on holiday or for dentistry? Have a very nice stay in Budapest and have a good day, thank you for shopping Spar.’

 

 

The Swan Building

Opposite our modest apartment in Budapest is a rather remarkable building.

Originally built in the 1800s as a military hospital and then turned into a concert hall, it was ‘transformed’ in the late 1990s into a stone, wood and shingles building stretching down the street and round the corner.IMG_2537.jpg

This is a city with some very big buildings – modesty in architecture seems not to be a Hungarian trait.

The parliament building is huge – makes our Palace of Westminster look positively unassuming. I am not sure what ratio of laws to square metres each produces but if there is a direct link, then the Hungarians must have more laws than they know what do with.

So, here we are for a week and this is our view which is not bad, but the Swan Building also had a nice little secret.

I spotted a board on the street not a minute’s walk down the road.IMG_2487.jpg

 

You go through a chain link gate and follow the path – halfway along, there is another notice telling you  to ‘be brave and keep going.’

And then there is a bar semi-sourrounded by the building and under trees with outside tables and chairs  – and the promise of a rabbit.IMG_2485.jpg

Needless the say, this is where we can be found every early evening.

Last night we sat next to a table at which were a group of students and a (almost inevitably) pony-tailed ‘professor’ talking about creative writing.

One of the students volunteered to read out what he had been writing.

Suffice it to say, his explanation afterwards of his hero was, ‘Jimmy was a randomnist and before that, he was a contrarian.’

( No, I haven’t translated this from the Hungarian – they were English-speaking. My grasp of Hungarian stretches to hello and thank you….)

As Nick said, sotto voce, ‘ The crucial thing is how to break the silence at the end of that reading.’

When I went in to pay the bill inside, the nice young man at the bar told me that the building was controversial when it was built because ‘ many people still had communist ideas of architecture and this was a fairy house.’

He also told me the building was problematic, ‘ an architect’s idea, but not really practical.’

The roof leaks, the offices – for it is mostly businesses in there – are too small and the windows shadowed by the stonework make them dark and pokey.

(Not like the big windows and un-leaking roofs of proper communist style buildings….)

But, he told me, you get an interesting cross-section of people in the garden bar, like the writers, he said.

‘Is the one talking all the time any good? It sounds not so good to me but then I don’t speak English that well.’

‘Oh, you do,’ I said.

I asked if the promised rabbit was in a stew.

‘No, no not at all, he is on holiday until the sun is warmer and it stops raining.’

‘Are you here on holiday or for dentistry? ‘  The question everyone in Budapest asks a British visitor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Budapest or Seville

I do realise that just mentioning a choice of spending time in either of these very nice European cities is not an issue that anyone but the luckiest of people have to think about.

But my best beloved, wants to get away for the dreary month which is a  British February, and we went to Seville this year for a week’s scouting.

I came back pretty convinced that I would not be a happy Spanish camper unless I could find a mission to keep me occupied for the month and no, learning Spanish is not the answer.

Budapest however is much more promising.

It is considerably bigger for a start so there is more to see. It has shed loads of history – admittedly most of it grim.

Liberation of the city from one occupying invader or another rarely seems to have turned out happily for the Budapesti.

Even outside the shopping mall is a monument to those who tried to stop the Soviet tanks in 1956 and the former Soviet prison stands next to the bus station.

( I spent, by the way, a  good ten minutes watching four abseilers wash the front facade of that shopping mall on my way to fetch croissants one morning.)

So, there is lots of history to go at.

And given that history, I am not sure what goes on in this building…..

IMG_2506.jpg

On one of my walks, I came across this protest against the erection of a memorial to the German occupation of Hungary.

IMG_2508.jpg

 

IMG_2509.jpg

 

 

IMG_2513.jpg

The man in the anorak could explain about the pebbles, artefacts, history of the occupation and deportation and killing of Jews, in any language you wanted – I am sure I don’t need to point out the contrast with the kids playing in the fountains.

In any language it is clear that Premier Viktor Orban is not good news.

Anyway, The Rough Guide to Budapest suggests 17 things you have to do whilst you are here and I have not managed to tick off anywhere near all of them despite the week I have had.

(Admittedly, the art gallery is closed for renovation, the Hungarian Glastonbury only happens in August but even so….)

One of the things we have not managed is to go to a ‘ruin bar.’ Apparently they are set up within deserted buildings or courtyards and have a great ‘Bohemian’ feel.

I have however developed an interest in the shop signs and manhole covers. That could keep me going on a mission for a month…..

IMG_2462.jpgIMG_2442.jpgIMG_2528.jpgIMG_2495.jpg

Tomorrow, are the thermal baths and this afternoon the biggest market hall in Europe.

And maybe the clincher, is the fact I have stumbled across charity shops – one where you can buy clothes by the kilo.

(Surprisingly, they were familiar makes such as M&S and Phase Eight and a nice little number from Sandwich but at a size 10 was not even in my wildest dreams.

Mind you, even in my rose-tinted look at Budapest would I describe the womenfolk as universally stylish….)

So, whilst my best beloved nurtures his Stockholm syndrome and says he feels ‘a bit lost and flat’ on the day off he has from the machinations of the Transylvanian dentist, Johanna – I  am considering of a snowy Budapest February.