A boat hunt

Something rather nasty happened in our Oxfam bookshop the other day.

And that is not a sentence I would have imagined having to write.

I had been charged with decorating the window and had amassed a lot of books on water, the shipping forecast, books on the sea, how to make model sailing boats, you get the idea.

Well, I decided to boost the attractiveness of the window by using a Dufy print which I remember as a child and therefore dates back to the 60s.

And I decided to include the lovely little model metal boat we bought in Corfu town a few years ago.

‘I wouldn’t,’ said the Best Beloved, ‘ It will get nicked.’

But I didn’t listen. I carefully made sure it had a not for sale sign on it as over enthusiastic volunteers have been known to sell unpriced things for less than they are worth or indeed, are on loan to the shop and not for sale.

It was stolen and I was gutted.

The BB, I have to say was gracious about it given that it was really his boat and he had of course warned me.

But in my defence, we have never had anything like that happen before. I am sure a few paperbacks have been slipped into bags, but nothing stolen from the window.

We bought it from a jewellery shop in old Corfu town during a dark thunderstorm with torrential rain.

I had seen a pair of earrings I really liked whilst out on a wander earlier in the day and the lovely BB said he would buy them for me and I said he should come and see the amazing model boats.

We sheltered from the storm, quite literally and bought both earrings and out boat.

So last Saturday I Googled about looking for jewellery shops that would fit the bill of my memory.

( I did by way of a sidetrack, think how i would have gone about this search in the days of my youth when Google was not so much as a software glimmer in Larry Page’s eye.

( Well I would have found the expat and therefore English language newspaper/magazine and asked them for help. It is not a big town so I would be willing to bet it would be an easy hunt for them and they could get a story out of it.

Or called the tourist office, or called one of the hotels in the town. I towels have been more of a treasure hunt but possible.)

Anyway, I found one with a phone number and called it. I asked the man on the other end about the boats and he said though it wasn’t his shop we had visited, he did know the boat maker who had retired but he thought he might have a few left.

I sent Kostas a picture of my boat and explained it had been stolen and I wanted to replace it.

But that was Saturday and this is now Wednesday, and I haven’t heard anything back.

Meanwhile though I thought I would take a picture of the earrings to illustrate the blog and surprisingly for me, I had kept them in their little box. 

Lo and behold, there was the phone number of the shop on the side of the box.

As I sit here, I am plucking the courage to ring them and I am keeping everything crossed that the shop is still there, the boat maker is to be found, that he does indeed have a few boats left, and if so, I can afford to buy one and get it shipped over to me.

It seems to me that is a lot of ifs, and I know I am prevaricating on the basis that I don’t want to be disappointed.

I will be living in hope for a few hours yet – and I will let you know.

Odysseus – the not so modern man

Going on holiday with someone steeped in Greek history and mythology has its advantages.

There are of course times when chit chat of the day, especially when the day has been weather dull and not much going on, can flag.

But at that point you can steer the conversation around to, say, Odysseus.

Apparently, he landed on an island, since claimed to be Corfu (where we were.)

Not for the first time, he was shipwrecked and had to sleep on the beach.

Imagine his surprise in the morning then, when a delightful princess arrived with her handmaidens, who recognised him for the gent he was and took him home to be lauded by her father’s court.

(Even more surprising was the fact she and her handmaidens had travelled across the island to do the washing and that is how they bumped into him…..)

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Actually, there is a quite a lot of cut and paste about Odysseus’ adventures – shipwrecked, on the beach with a few survivors, going inland to kill a sheep, roasting it and then waiting for a pretty girl to turn up.

Anyway, we were at the taverna and the best beloved looked up Tennyson’s poem about what happened when Odysseus finally got home after all his travels.

You might remember that his wife Penelope had been keeping her 108 suitors -who were pretty sure that Odysseus was not coming back in a hurry – waiting by weaving a shroud.

She said she would choose one of them when she had finished – but each night she would unpick a bit to fend off decision time.

This ruse lasted three years until she was unmasked by a faithless servant.

Given that Odysseus was away for 20 years, she must have had some more inventive tricks up her Grecian sleeve.

So Odysseus gets home and decides to come in dressed as a beggar to see what is what, no doubt.

The goddess Athena gets involved, and Penelope sets up a contest for the still lingering suitors – none of which apparently recognise our hero – so that whoever can string Odysseus’s rigid bow and shoot an arrow through twelve axe heads may have her hand. 

Well, yes of course, Odysseus wins and the suitors are all slaughtered.

Meanwhile, back at the taverna, my BB had looked up Tennyson’s poem on what happened next.

( You need to know at this point, just in case you didn’t, that Odysseus and Ulysses are the same man – the same, away for 20 years, shipwrecked,  los of adventures, fond of a pretty girl, man.)

Now, I am always throwing away copies of Tennyson’s work at the Oxfam shop – he is not read much in these times and parts – but this poem is a great rail against getting old and not doing what you can in the time you have. 

(By the way Tennyson was not a lord – he was christened Alfred Lord Tennyson.)

Which is fine and dandy, but if I was Penelope and he came in of an evening and read this to me as a justification for what he was about to do, I might be less than pleased. 

(In fairness there is nothing in the Odessy to say whether he actually set off again or stayed home and told his wife and son how grateful he was that they had kept all things in order, the home fires burning, and were there to look after him in his old age, listen to his endless, bloody endless, stories of his adventures…..)

The commentary is mine…

Ulysses

It little profits that an idle king, 

By this still hearth, among these barren crags, 

Match’d with an aged wife, I mete and dole 

Unequal laws unto a savage race, 

That hoard, and sleep, and feed, and know not me. 

The aged wife, mate, is so because you have been away for 20 years and she has been fending off suitors, bringing up your son – born just before you set off on your adventures and who has been running your kingdom….

I cannot rest from travel: I will drink 

Life to the lees: 

(so, you got home, hung around in disguise and now instead of being nice to your very long-suffering wife and son who have kept everything together, you think, ‘ I really need a bit of a trip, something exciting to break the monotony.’ )

All times I have enjoy’d 

Greatly, have suffer’d greatly, both with those 

That loved me, and alone, on shore, 

(not that alone, with a pretty girl on each shipwrecked bay….) 

and when 

Thro’ scudding drifts the rainy Hyades 

Vext the dim sea: I am become a name; 

For always roaming with a hungry heart 

Much have I seen and known; cities of men 

And manners, climates, councils, governments, 

Myself not least, but honour’d of them all; 

( and modesty not being one of my many, many great qualities…)

And drunk delight of battle with my peers, 

Far on the ringing plains of windy Troy. 

I am a part of all that I have met; 

Yet all experience is an arch wherethro’ 

Gleams that untravell’d world whose margin fades 

For ever and forever when I move. 

How dull it is to pause, to make an end,

( I am guessing Penelope won’t be that pleased to hear that.) 

To rust unburnish’d, not to shine in use! 

As tho’ to breathe were life! Life piled on life 

Were all too little, and of one to me 

Little remains: but every hour is saved 

From that eternal silence, something more, 

A bringer of new things; and vile it were 

For some three suns to store and hoard myself, 

And this gray spirit yearning in desire 

To follow knowledge like a sinking star, 

Beyond the utmost bound of human thought. 

There lies the port; the vessel puffs her sail: 

There gloom the dark, broad seas. My mariners, 

Souls that have toil’d, and wrought, and thought with me— 

That ever with a frolic welcome took 

( Mmm. a shipwreck a week and not that much of a frolic, I am thinking…a man with an overly romantic hindsight.)

The thunder and the sunshine, and opposed 

Free hearts, free foreheads—you and I are old; 

Old age hath yet his honour and his toil; 

Death closes all: but something ere the end, 

Some work of noble note, may yet be done, 

( Rest on your laurels, mate, and bear in mind that we all look backwards and wish that we might have done something more impressive with our lives, but hey ho, you had more adventures than most – and certainly more than Penelope got.)

Not unbecoming men that strove with Gods. 

( see above re self-depreciation)

The lights begin to twinkle from the rocks: 

The long day wanes: the slow moon climbs: the deep 

Moans round with many voices. Come, my friends, 

‘T is not too late to seek a newer world. 

Push off, and sitting well in order smite 

The sounding furrows; for my purpose holds 

To sail beyond the sunset, and the baths 

Of all the western stars, until I die. 

It may be that the gulfs will wash us down: 

It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles, 

And see the great Achilles, whom we knew. 

Tho’ much is taken, much abides; and tho’ 

We are not now that strength which in old days 

Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are; 

One equal temper of heroic hearts, 

Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will 

To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.

Lottery Winnings

Within almost spitting distance of our hotel room, there were two conflicting ways in which to get rid of quite a lot of my lottery winnings.

It was the end of the season so the very big yacht/boat/whatever/, was all alone against the jetty and watchable from our hotel bedroom window.

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Indeed so close were we that – if we had only had the right passwords – we could have logged onto to crew, captain’s, owner’s or guests’ wifi.

It is called Apogee which I thought, perhaps a little optimistically, meant that its owner had a sense of humour.

It turns out that its owner wants rid – perhaps, I thought, indeed it had been the apogee, and then things had gone downhill for him.

(The price has been reduced by $500,000 and it is now going for $24,950,000.

Or you can charter it for $275,000 per week.)

But no, a little research shows that the owner is someone called Darwin Deason ( yes he is American) worth some $1.45 billion dollars so he can probably live with the current disappointment of no sale.

I looked up what we might get for that amount of winnings and the specs were indeed impressive – if, I have to say, tasteless.

The main salon is panelled in mahogany and has white carpet and brown furniture.

Well, white carpet is so James Bond circa 1970s and completely impractical ( for the cleaning crew.)

And if I was out and about in Med on a boat like that, in the sunshine, why on earth would I want mahogany and brown furniture – I could get that in Furniture Land in Croydon.Image result for yacht apogee images

Mind you, the spec says, guests can converse there in comfort whilst waiting for their dinner to be served at the 10-seater dinning table – indoor one or outdoor one, so that is all right.

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The master suite has his and hers bathrooms, a walk-in wardrobe, and office and a sitting room.

And of course there are guest rooms though one of them has a double sofa bed which hardly strikes the same note of luxury – I had one of those in my first student flat.

There is a gym, jacuzzi and two bars – one each side so you can shuttle across to see a different view, or oscillate between sun and shade.

There is an indoor pool and an area at the bow ‘to store motorised toys’.

Now I didn’t think they’d be posh rubber rings and indeed they aren’t…..

‘Two Nouvurania tender dingys with a 300 hp & 230 hp engine respectively, four 3 person Kawasaki water bikes, various scuba diving equipment, water-skis, fishing gear, underwater aft lights, two see through bottomed Explorer kayaks.’

All this is courtesy of a 2013  -refit which is something my other choice to spend my lottery millions, did not have.

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This was the home of an artist.

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It turns out – there has been time to do quite a lot of research given that we have been somewhat rain-confined to our holiday rental – Angelos Giallinas 1867-1939 was one of the last of the Heptanese School of Art.

That got you sitting up straighter didn’t it?

So, to quail your beating heart, here is the information you need and I am sure you will feel better for it:

‘The School of the Seven Islands, (Hepatense) also known as the Ionian Islands’ School succeeded the Cretan School as the leading school of Greek post-Byzantine painting after Crete fell to the Ottomans in 1669. Like the Cretan school it combined Byzantine traditions with an increasing Western European artistic influence, and also saw the first significant depiction of secular subjects. The school was based in the Ionian Islands, which were not part of Ottoman Greece, from the middle of the 17th century until the middle of the 19th century.

So, Giallinas had painted murals at Sisi’s palace in Achelleion – where we were just today but I hadn’t known that when I visited – how exciting…..

(I am leaving it to you to do the research on Sisi and her palace and rather tragic history.)

I read that Giallinas, after studying in various places, decided to specialise in watercolours and had his first solo exhibition in Athens in 1886 where he met the British ambassador Clare Ford.

Then I got a bit carried away.

I was going to make sure this lovely, neglected building was restored and what is more, not just made beautiful (with no white carpets and places to stow your ‘water toys’) but into a (tasteful) place where he and the female – because what a shock, we had a female, yes female, ambassador in the 19th century – were celebrated.

I had salons planned, rooms, other rooms, gallery spaces – and though I am not a fan of 19th century watercolours  I was willing to be liberal and show them off – and did I mention rooms? – a very nice set of rooms for friends and family.

(Not mahogany and brown upholstery but something much more light and airy and suitable and yes, in better taste.)

And what is more, I planned a celebration of this unknown female ambassador. 

I would track down her history, her letters, her relationship with Giallanas……

Then, I did some more research and found that Clare Ford had commissioned our artist to paint landscapes in Venice, Rhodes, Istanbul and had arranged an exhibition in London and introduced him to London society.

Well done that woman, I thought.

Clare Ford, it turns out, was Sir Francis Clare Ford.

My Best Beloved and I spent the evening thinking of colour schemes, but I am not sure the millions are yet decided.

The View From Corfu

There is a depressing element of Groundhog Day about us going on holiday – it rains, or there is civil unrest.

(Though I have to say that since we booked ill-fated visas for Syria in 2011 and then were told by the Foreign Office that we would be on our own if we went – we didn’t –  our jinx has been confined to rain.)

So, here is this holiday’s tale so far.

(Now you have had the spoiler alert, you needn’t read on to find out what happens if you have better things to do – and I have to say, that as I write this, there is a brief glimpse of sun over the sea, so this is after all, a privileged person’s complaint.)

For those of you still with me, here is the timeline:

Packing:

Despite the weather forecasts, I think positively and pack summer stuff – after all the forecasts say it is going to be sometimes sunny. ( I am still in the warmer travel clothes I arrived in.)

My best beloved, optimistically, packed snorkels. 

The airport:

I am a nervous flyer and anyway like to be in good time, so we are there early – despite a Monday morning rush hour drive involving the M25 and a blinding sun in my eyes.

The BB settles down for a paper, a cappuccino and almond croissant whilst I wander about getting things I don’t really need, and forgetting the one thing we do really need – a guide book to Corfu.

Since I met him, our holidays have involved, thinking where might be nice, booking it with no further research, and buying a Rough Guide for me to read on the plane so that we know what to do.

Mmmm no guide book……

The Gatwick electronic boards show that our flight is ‘Go to the Gate’ but no gate is shown. I pace about nervously, whilst the BB says, there is plenty of time.

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Eventually, it shows ‘Boarding’ but still no gate and at this point, my ever laid back and patient BB decides we ought to find out what is going on.

We find an airport information desk and they tell us the gate.

We join a few other enterprising souls who have found the mystery gate and are told to sit and wait, and wait and wait.

The flight:

It is with a small Polish carrier and there are all of 20 of us on the flight.

Nice, I thought, not least as we were at the front with extra leg room and there were a million places to put your overhead luggage.

We had, as the Polish captain said the ‘usual Gatwick’ wait of 30 minutes before we could get a slot to fly, and then we were off.

One of the nice young cabin crew men came to take our order for food and drink. He wrote it down and took it away – there were about 8 of us at the front of the plane.

He smiled, and told us it would be about 10 to 15 minutes for the food.

It was the worst cheese and tomato toastie in flight memory – cold and with only one slice actually toasted – after 15 minutes, really? 

The women cabin crew came to the front after their (arduous) food service of the other say 10 people at the back – and one of them sat texting.

Now, I know that the rules about mobile phones being switched off is silly – but really! In front of the passengers?

The drive:

A nice holiday rep at the airport said our drive would take her about 20 minutes so we, not knowing the road, should think about 30 minutes.

And, she said, the weather forecast was looking up.

Nice she may have been, but truthful she certainly wasn’t.

This is not the first holiday we have had this year, and it is also not the first holiday we have had where a lot of uphill and downhill sharp s-bends and sheer drops, a newly-hired car, and me ( a relatively cautious driver)  have been involved.

Thank god it was not the height of the season so there was, as we were told, no one on the roads – well not quite actually, … I’d say it took us about an hour.

( We had been warned by the hire car woman that the turn into the public car park was a killer for scraping the underside of the car – and that was not covered by the rental agreement – so I was told to take it wide to the left. But not so far to the left that I scraped the passenger side on the bushes – because that was not covered either….)

We are thinking of taking the bus tomorrow.

When we arrived, we went down to one of the many tavernas overlooking the beach – all very nice and the sun setting. 

We ordered wine and what turned out to be very nice fish, and watched the sun.

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Then there was the creeping black of cloud on the horizon.

Then it got bigger and became what you would call, a bit dramatic.

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Is that a bad sign I asked the waiter.

He was evasive – it seems to be a trait here to not tell the tourists bad news – but eventually he agreed, indeed it was a bad sign.

We watched the sun go down behind black cloud and wondered what you do in a small-ish Greek resort in the final week of the season when it rains….

So, the place we are staying is nice but rather basic – though as I sit here there is a view of the sea. 

(Admittedly it is a bit full of white caps and the rain tends to take the edge of it but hey ho the BB went swimming this morning.)

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I decided to cook lunch – we are after all self-catering – and got some tomatoes, peppers etc and then found the kitchen has no wooden spoon, no decent sized frying pan, no tin opener and no scissors……

We decided against eating outside.

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